For a full account of the trip, at least as much as I have been able to write so far, visit and keep visiting The Towlehouse Website version at http://www.towlehouse.net/DolphinDivingStory.htm

That version is written in order with all the pictures on top and the written story after.

From now on I will probably only update that site because I own it and it doesn't have the same limitation on number of images (Blogstream limits me to 50).

Thanks to everyone that shares in our little adventure and keep the comments coming.

Dave, Beth and Morgan
(Stew sends love from Argentina)

Most of the Islands are protected...
Aboriginal Caves...
Our friend on the docks...
A couple of funny water birds...
The faithful Girofle...
Beth letting Bob drive...
Swimming off the back...
Club Med Kayaking Morgan...
And her mom...
Captain Dave letting Bob drive...
Rough and Beautiful Islands...
The resort's pool...

Morgan's Koala Adventure...
Beth gets to hold them too...
Can't beat that smile!

Week 2…

Day 8, Monday, 26-Nov-07, Stay at Hamilton Island

Lay-in day at Hamilton Island Marina.  Morgan woke up to watch Princess Diaries II while Dada caught-up on his Harry Potter listening.  We rented a buggy and had a picnic up on the hill.  Dada and Morgan swam while Mama went to the airport to check on possible return flights.

Day 9, Tuesday, 27-Nov-07, Hamilton Island to Shaw Island

Time to head back out.  After waking up next to Morgan, Mama and Dada went to get water at the market.  We headed for Shaw Island and dolphins, finally.  Morgan watched Legally Blonde II again, then Beth returned the DVD, got rid of the trash had a bit of a walk.  The dock guy named Morgan and Greg took us to the fuel dock.  They filled the boat and the propane tank, but we neglected to fill the dingy jerry jug.  It was a great sail all the way down to Shaw Island.

Once at anchor we saw a turtle and small pod of dolphins very close, but they were feeding so they couldn’t play.  Dada dinghy explored while the women got ready to go to the beach, then Dada dropped them off before returning for the sched check-in.  By the time he was done, they were ready to return.

Dada and Morgan swam, then snorkeled over the anchor and almost to shore.  They saw sea cucumber, some long thin green fish that darted into holes, some cool sponges, a leopard cod-thing and “Winkin”.

Engine on at 0830, away from dock by 0900, out of the harbor by 0945, under sail at 1000 and anchored at 1230.

Trip = 9.96 OW, 16.9 OG
WISI09: S 20°29.185’, E 149°04.223’

Day 10, Wednesday, 28-Nov-07, Shaw Island to Lindemann Island Resort

Mama did not sleep well in such a rolly anchorage.  Having decided to try to rearrange our Raiatea charter to allow more Sydney city time, we needed to try to reach John Keyes – our charter coordinator.  We needed phone reception and we needed dinghy gas.  They had neglected to fill it for us in the marina.

We decided to try Lindemann Club Med Resort for our needs.  Sunsail advised that we would have to pay to use a mooring and go ashore.  It became the plan to just go for lunch.  Sunsail said they’d coordinate the gas.

So, anchors up and quick over to Lindemann.  Nobody answered hails, but we ultimately figured out where the moorings were.  We took the dinghy to their ferry dock and in for the party.  We did:  swim in pool, stuff to the gills with wine and food at lunch, Hobie sailing, kayaking, walking, swim in the ocean, more swim in the pool, water polo, water basketball, ping-pong, drinking, drinking and more drinking – all inclusive.

Morgan bought flip-flops and new sunglasses.  We finished 2^nd in the trivia game.  Back to the boat for dinner and pass out.  Beth was sure I left my contacts in.

Engine on and anchor up at 0900, picked up mooring at 1000 at Lindemann Island Resort
Trip = 2.84 OW, 3.78 OG
WILI10: S 20°27.876’, E 149°02.411’

Day 11, Thursday, 29-Nov-07, Lindemann to Goldsmith Island

Surprisingly, Dada was first up.  Everyone had slept in a separate cabin for a change.  He awoke to very red eyes.  Might have been the 6 martinis, 3 glasses of wine and one “Oh, the pain!” he drank yesterday or it could have been just the dry weather and having worn his contacts longer than usual.

It was not quite 0700, but Mama rushed out for a wail and to try to reach John Keyes again.  Dada and Morgan made Christmas origami and friendship bracelets.  Morgan put one friendship bracelet around Elizabeth’s (the doll) neck.

Once Mama was back and everyone had breakfast, we set out for Goldsmith Island.  Once we had cleared the Lindemann channel, we raised sails and sailed on 4 tacks right to our destination; first on a southeast wind, then on a noreaster.

The first anchorage we tried, Minne Bay, was not acceptable to the Admiral, so we moved to Baylen Bay, which turned out to be quite rolly and windy, but we made due.

Dada and Morgan dinghied to the beach to swim.  While there they invented a story about Pirate Goldsmith and his stow-away Baroness Maria. 

Dinner was chicken, rice and veggies for dinner followed by make-up stories about Pink, Orange, Brown, Silver and Goldsmith.

Engine on at 0945, underway by 1000, sailing with company by 1030, achor down (2^nd time) at 1445
Trip = 17.61 OW, 23.8 OG
WIGS11: S 20°40.446’, E 149°08.909’

Story of Goldsmith and the Baroness

The year was 1707 and it was the age of Barons and Noblemen as well as the time of Thieves, Robber Barons and Pirates.  There were wars going on and many small feuds between neighbors and competing gangs.

Our story begins, however, with a simple man, a smithy named Black, Black Smith.  He lived on the island of Raiatea in the French Polynesian Islands, although they weren’t under French rule, yet.  He had twin sons.  One was named Gold and other he named Silver.  More stuff to use:

      Baroness Maria stole away

      Goldsmith stole Baron’s gold

      They were being chased by The White Pearl

      Mutiny

      Goldsmith and Maria escaped to Goldsmith Island

      They buried the treasure using a mound on the beach, the cave in the hill and monkey hill, etc.

Day 12, Friday, 30-Nov-07, Goldsmith to Dinghy and Western Bays, Brampton Island

Mama woke Dave early, 0515 to move.  It was too rolly for her and she couldn’t sleep.  We headed for Brampton Island and hopefully a better anchorage.  We motored around Linne and Goldsmith.  It was a nice straight shot at 160° past Finger and Thumb Islands and past the western point.

While underway we had great phone reception.  An e-mail from John Keyes indicating what it would cost to change our plans and another long one from Stew – what a treat.  He told of his Cheech and Chong decorating style.

We thought Dinghy Bay would be most protected.  The winds were out of the northeast.  What we had not expected was the swells coming from the southeast.  These were left over from the prior days of southeast winds.  We toughed it out, rocking an rolling, through breakfast of bacon and pancakes.  Then, since Beth had wanted to come down here to check out the walk around Brampton, it was decided to take her to shore to await calmer seas.  Morgan and Dada would snorkel and swim while she walked.  We would plan our next move once we got back to the boat.

It was a great swim and snorkel.  We saw a Sea Squirt, a 3’ Giant Clam, a really big Grouper and a Manta Ray.  As we swam above the reef just 3 feet below us, it suddenly dropped off into a deap sand bottom stream.  This is where the charts say to anchor.  We weren’t far off, but had anchored a little further out than we could have.

Once Dada picked up Mama from shore, she told of some of the bottom fish that were biting her feet as she walked in the water.  Morgan said they were Sand Sharks.  We quickly raised anchor to move considerably.  Morgan made a long friendship croakie for Dada’s Bolle sunglasses, which always seem to slip down his nose when he wears them.

The new anchorage was to be Western Bay, just around the point, but more protected from southeast swells.  Once there we had lunch in the relative calm.  Then Beth and Morgan went in to the “best beach” yet while Dada took a nap a shower on the back of the boat.  That evening we saw phosphorescent single cell organisms reproducing in the water.  First you’d see one bright stringy thing, then suddenly it would become two, then four, then eight by the time it had passed out of sight of the boat. 

It is good we came down this far since Brampton had the best beach with the best swimming and the best walk Mama had seen so far.

Engine on at 0540, underway at 0550, anchored at Brampton Island at 0840, back underway at 1245, anchored at 1315 in Western Bay
Trip = 12.64 OW, 14.2 OG to Dinghy Bay, 1.47 OW, 1.8 OG to Western Bay
WIHI01: S 20°20.95’, E 148°57.06’

Day 13, Saturday, 1-Dec-07, Brampton to Hamilton Island

Wow, what a night!  A huge midnight thunder storm lasted until 0300.  For a while the rain was so thick it would have been hard to breathe in it, if we had had the guts to go out.  Worst, the southeast swells had come back in force.  By 0700 Dada had to get up to check what all the banging was about.

No dawdling this morning.  Some of the sensibilities aboard were wearing quite thin with all the rolling and rough weather.  It was time for a quiet night’s sleep in a real harbor.  Originally, we had planned to drop by Thomas Island before pulling back into Hamilton Island.  After that storm, the Admiral asked that we find the shortest and quickest way back to the Sunsail Base.  The Captain found a route that took us around the inside of the Blacksmith group, but roughly the same way we came down.  By 1000 we were able to put sails up and we sailed until the winds died down around noon.  We motored thereafter into the marina, the last part just along the edge of another huge thunderstorm.

Once docked, Morgan and Mama went for a swim and to pick up Legally Blonde and Bend it Like Beckham.  Dinner was grilled veggies with unidentified meat; Beth had gone to the grocer for more veggies and she cooked it all.  By the end of the day Beth had completed the forth book in The Outlander series by Diane Gabalden.

Beth and Morgan had also checked out the sculptor’s garden museum and shop.  They also booked a petting tour at the Koala Park as well as a massage for the Admiral.  That night the Marina Bar was full of cat chokers trying to sing group karaoke style. 

Engine on at 0640, 0700 underway for Hamilton Island Marina, 2^nd dock, engine off by 1500
Trip = 30.99, 36.0 OG
WIHI13: S 20°20.943’, E 148°57.022’

Day 14, Sunday, 2-Dec-07, Stay at Hamilton Island

Breakfast was Beth’s cheese eggs with sausage and toast.  Morgan and Beth swam in both resort pools and the beach.  They had built a hermit crab pool and filled it with over 100 hermit crabs.

They returned for a quick lunch and then struck out for the Koala petting.  Morgan got to hold all of them, including the two babies (Nutty and Waldo).  She also had a chance to feed them bamboo.  Facts learnt about Koalas:

      Gestation period of 35 days

      The jellybean sized baby goes into the pouch for 6 months

      They only eat the tender leaves of the bamboo

      At this park they go through a truckload of bamboo per day

We met Michelle and Pat from a Fountain Pajot Belize 43 named Aqua Bar.  Also on board were Grant and Greg (the husbands).  They were boat owners and also have a 42’ boat in Sydney.

After Koala kuddling, Dada met them at the resort to play with Morgan in the pool while Mama went for her massage.  Perfect, it was Happy Hour, not that it was cheap, but at least it was cheaper than usually.  We had a few cocktails, splashed about and then threw a Sponge Bob basketball with Zack.  Our favorite was the endless game of “Fink in the Middle” or “Monkey in the Middle”, depending on what country you are from.  Zack loved being in the middle, even though he was half the size of Morgan.  We caught the bus home and back to return the DVD.

Dinner was from the Fish and Chips place followed by chats with the neighbors on the docks.

Layover day…

BayGull and friend were regular visitors, particularly around dinner time...
Toby the turtle kept popping up to say hello... Whitsunday Mountain, Beth tried to climb this thing...
Bob, the autopilot was always the most consistent driver...
Morgan was our star fashion queen and fashion consultant... Day 4 brought a Thansgiving Dinner... And another awesome sunset in paradise... Catch these 3 training ships, a trimaran, a racing sled and a sqare rigger... Here comes Beth after a swim and a shower... And, the good ship Girofle bobbing happily at anchor... Morgan jumping into Luncheon Bay, the one with the floating rocks...
Finally, our friendly Long Fin Bat Fish friends were larger than seat cushions.

Day 0, Saturday/Sunday, 17/18-Nov-07, Air Travel
Following a night of mud slinging and siliness by Morgan, Mimi and Becca, the family was finally packed and ready for the long journey to Australia.  Stew drove us to PDX; Morgan lamented going away, separated from her friends.  Beth lamented the $ 25 extra Alaska Airlines charged to get the really big bag on the plane.  We had a very full 6 checked bags and at least one carry-on a piece.  What a load.

We flew out on the 11:00am flight and called Dick (Beth’s father) when we reached Santa Ana.  Dinner was delicious turkey dinner with mashed potatoes and butternut squash.  It was our advanced Thanksgiving feast. After dinner was pink frosting cake in honor of Beth’s birthday.  We will probably be at sea on the real day. 

Dick was kind enough to drive us to LAX late for a 10:00pm flight to Sydney;  A 14.5 hour fiasco to the Land Down-Under.  Morgan slept for 8 hours, watched TV for the rest.  Dave slept all but 4 hours of the flight.  He didn’t have much of a choice locked in against the window.

Sunday was completely lost over the Pacific…

Day 1, Monday, 19-Nov-07, Sydney to Hamilton Island
We arrived Sydney in the morning.  Dave wrestled with his phone service, but neglected to buy any Duty Free.  Quick bite in the food court, then off to Hamilton Island.  Met by a Sunsail van, we were introduced to newlyweds from Melbourne, Andrew and Denise.  Checked-out on the boat, but too tired to do the Area Briefing.  The boat check-out is all about how to operate the boat and to review your skills to operate all the systems.  The Area Briefing is to help you decide where to sail, where to anchor, where they would rather you don’t travel or stop. 

Dinner was at the Manta Ray Pub.  Morgan drove the dinghy over, using the “thingy”.  We saw thousands of bats flying over the trees after dinner.  Early to bed.
WIHI01: S 20°20.95’, E 148°57.06’

Day 2, Tuesday, 20-Nov-07, Hamilton Island to Cid Harbor
We were all early to rise.  Dave went to take a shower while a cockatoo showed up on the boat.  Beth then took a walk and later we all took headed over to the resort beach for some beach and pool time.  Dave crashed in a beach chair while Beth and Morgan swam.  On the way to the pool, we saw a guana (about 4’ long), looked like a small Komodo Dragon, on the walk to the beach.  We passed a restaurant that showed crocodiles off and they were having a “Breakfast with a Koala.”  Naturally, Morgan hopes to hold a koala when we get back to Hamilton Island again.  Back at the docks we saw a sea millipede looking thing under the strern. 

Lunch and ice cream, followed by an Aria Brief by the local POME (Prisoner of Mother England).  Finally out of the slip at 14:10 – piloted out by Greg (one of the dock boys).  He was picked up before we passed the end of the dock.  Beth drove out of the harbor and up the passage between the islands.  Once we had turned around the corner we raised the sails – SE winds up to 20 knots, nice turn and we were able to ride a broad reach and wing-on-sing most of the way to Cid Harbor.

Having turned up the channel between Hamilton and Cid Island, the wind soon died.  Beth and Morgan drove while Dave took the flopping sales in.  We followed a catamaran; rather, lagged behind a catamaran; into Cid Harbor.  There were close to 10 boats anchored – from small monohulls to large catamaran power boats.  Later we were joined by a megayacht and a small cruise ship – anchored way out.

Once Beth dropped the hook, we saw a turtle (Dada named him Toby), who seemed to keep popping up, but always just far enough away from Girofle not be photographed, nor bothered by us. 

We checked in with Sunsail, then Beth and Morgan took to the beach.  Morgan was quite enthusiastic about her shells and sand for Mr. Science.  Dinner was steak and sliced potatoes on the Ausie-style Barby and broccoli cooked below.  It was quite dark by the time we finished our cheesecake.

Total time underway today was 2 hours.  Knot log showed 7.2 nautical miles (nm) traveled over the water, but chart plotter reported 8.37nm over the ground.
WICH02: S 20°15.67’, E 148°56.91’

Day 3, Wednesday, 21-Nov-07, Layover in Cid Harbor
Dada slept in until pancakes were ready.  Having indicated that he was in no hurry to move today.  Beth started planning the departure.  Beth did a walk while Morgan and Dada snorkeled around then back to the boat.  Dada was very proud of Morgan’s new confidence.  We beat Beth in the race back to the boat. 

Winkin, Blinkin and Nodd had befriended us on the way into the shore.  Winkin, Blinkin and Nodd were 3 small yellow-striped fish that loved to swim in the slipstream under Dada’s mask.  Whenever he would slow down, they would swim in front of his mask.  When he overturned the sand on the bottom, they would swim through all the air bubbles rising.  They seemed be having more fun than we were.  There was not nearly as much life on these reefs, but we found a hermit crab, a small ray and lots of clear jellyfish things.  Good we wore our sting suits.

After lunch and a nap, we succame to Morgan’s wishes and swam and snorkeled together with her around the boat.  Now it was time for the big walk.  It was supposed to be an hour each way up and down Whitsunday Mountain.  In the spirit of vacation, Dada agreed to stay with Morgan (she did not want to go on a walk) while Mama did the walk alone.  This was also an opportunity to leave Morgan all alone for a few minutes; to see how it felt to be alone on a boat at anchor.  She was to do her writing while Dada did a little dinghy exploring, then Dada would return and take her for a dingy explore.  She was more than ready when Dada returned, hopping aboard the dinghy.  She drove while we chased surfacing turtles, waved to other boats and explored the river through a patch of mangroves.